While most of Europe struggles to keep its head above water, the cultural and financial advancement of Turkey is still on track. Combining history and tradition with modern, Western influences, Istanbul is carving out a distinctive niche for itself. With its abundance of art galleries, top hotels, bars and restaurants, and shopping to rival that of Paris, London or New York, the city is rated highly among the cosmopolitan jet- set brigade.
In terms of the cityscape itself, Istanbul is looking in better shape than ever, having undergone a major restoration programme in preparation for its crowning as one of Europe’s Capitals of Culture in 2010. All types of sites and attractions benefitted from the makeover, spanning city squares, fountains, bazaars and key landmarks such as Topkapi Palace.
On the scene
Istanbul has always been a hub for historical art, but the contemporary art scene of the city is impressive, too. In the past decade, the number of art galleries has exploded from half a dozen to over 200. One of the major establishments, if not the most recent, is Istanbul Modern. It hasn’t been compared to London’s Tate Modern for nothing. Mixing local names and world-renowned talent, featured artists include home grown notables such as Gulsun Karamustafa and globally recognised heavyweights like Anish Kapoor.
Parallel to the flourishing art and culture scene, the fashion and retail landscape of Istanbul is equally healthy. As a reflection of the city’s ramped-up fashion status, Condé Nast launched Vogue Turkey recently, and global brands are fighting to secure the good retail spots in the city. Spanning the entire retail spectrum, the shopping hub that is Beyoglu is brimming with high street names such as Benetton and Mavi Jeans, while the streets of upmarket area Ni˛santa˛si are lined with stores by Prada, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton et al. Ni˛santa˛si is also home to the department store, Beymen, which is comparable to London’s Harvey Nichols and stocks the wares of international big wigs such as Balmain, as well as local talents including Turkey’s own queen a la mode, Bahar Korcan.
As a business hub, Turkey is developing quickly, and Istanbul is at the heart of that. It’s growing status as a hub of retail and culture only make it an ever more desirable location.
Old world Istanbul
Keeping track of the latest developments in Istanbul is worthwhile, but don’t overlook some of the best historic haunts.
Basilica Cistern
Fascinating and eerily romantic, the Basilica Cistern is believed to date back to just after the Nika revolt in 532 AD. Featuring over 300 columns, a couple of which are supported by large Medusa heads, the underground waterway was used as a reservoir for water storage for the Topkapi Palace, among other key buildings in the city. This is one of the most intriguing attractions in Istanbul.
Basilica Cistern, Yerebatan Caddesi 13, Sultanahmet
The Booksellers’ Bazaar
Despite being something of a tourist trap these day, The Booksellers’ Bazaar is still worth a visit. It dates back to Ottoman times, when printed books were considered a corrupting European influence and only hand-lettered manuscripts were sold. The first book in Turkish was published in 1729. Today, books of all types are sold, including framed calligraphy.
The Bookseller Bazaar, West of Çadırcılar, in Sahaflar Çar˛sısı Sokak
Inci Pastanesi
As far as local experiences go, not much can beat a visit to the hole in the wall institution Inci Pastanesi. Established in the 1940s, Inci Pastanesi dishes out the best profiteroles in town, generously smothered in thick chocolate sauce. The staff, clad in blue uniforms, work valiantly against the daily throng.
Inci Pastanesi, Istiklal Caddesi 56, Beyo˘glu